Duck all'arancia

The Florentine origins of a French classic

For those who don't take an interest in hunting, it is easy to forget that the transition from autumn to winter also marks the hunting season and the delicious promise of la caccia. Although not always readily available in supermarkets, most good Florentine butchers stock a variety of fresh local game from October to December.

There are several ways to prepare wild game, but the dish that usually comes to mind before many others is perhaps the world-famous French classic canard à l'orange (duck with orange). But just how traditionally French is this dish? It most likely has origins in Florence. Originally known as papero alla melarancia, it was invented in the Middle Ages, when it became popular in noble kitchens to use citrus fruits as a way to preserve meat. It was in this era that the powerful Medici family subsequently ordered the construction of limonaie (orangeries) in many of their villas, where they mainly cultivated lemons and oranges in large terracotta pots. Even today, these limonaie are important features of most Medici villas.

Papero alla melarancia was exported to France in 1529, when the 14-year-old Caterina de' Medici, daughter of Lorenzo II de' Medici, ruler of Florence, married the future king of France, Henry II. Forty chefs from Siena and Florence accompanied her to Paris, bringing some of their best recipes, many of which were later claimed by the French. Among these are crespelle (crepes; see TF 146), balsamella (béchamel sauce), carabaccia (onion soup; see TF 141) and, of course, papero alla melarancia, soon renamedcanard à l'orange.

Along with her cooks and their recipes, Caterina de' Medici is also reported to have imported to France the fork (see TF 161), porcelain dishes, Venetian glassware, the Italian banking system, theatrical comedy and ballet, as well as the expectation that ladies would be present at dinner (previously they had been excluded, except for special occasions).

While Italians fiercely defend the theory that canard à l'orange originated in Florence, other nations, including France, have also claimed to be the source. In The Oxford Companion to Italian Food, Gillian Riley says that French recipes for duck with orange sauce existed as far back as the fourteenth century. However, the majority of food historians credit Caterina de' Medici, a veritable culinary trendsetter who brought more to France than any other noble, for this dish.

Whether fact or fiction, the possibility of the Florentine origin of duck à l'orange will add a touch of historical spice to this perfect winter warmer. Succulent, rich duck meat combined with the warming, aromatic spice of orange truly makes a delicious alternative to the everyday roast. With high levels of protein, B vitamins and minerals such as zinc, potassium, magnesium and iron, duck meat is very nutritious.

Some cooks avoid duck à l'orange, deterred by its reputation as a complex dish. Here, however, I offer a no-fuss but equally delicious version, arrosto di anatra all'arancia, in tribute to its simple Florentine origins.

RECIPE

Arrosto di anatra all'arancia

(serves 4 as a piatto unico or 6 as a secondo)

Ingredients

1 duck (1.5-2 kilos)

4 oranges

zest of 1 orange

1 onion

1 stalk celery

1 carrot

200 ml chicken stock

juice of 2 oranges

100ml brandy

1-2 tsp brown sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

If you have not bought the duck already cleaned, clean it well, cutting off any excess fat and removing the giblets. Preheat the oven to 220 degrees Celsius. Cut one of the oranges and the onion into quarters and stuff them inside the cavity. Dice the carrot and celery and place in the bottom of a roasting pan. Cut the other orange into slices and add to the bed of carrot and celery. Place the duck on top so that it covers all of the vegetables and orange slices. Prick the duck all over with a skewer and season generously with salt and pepper.

Place it in the preheated oven. After 20 minutes, reduce the temperature to 180 degrees Celsius and continue to roast the duck for another hour and 10 minutes, occasionally basting the meat with its juices. Remove from the oven, cover and leave to rest on a large board while you make the sauce.

Strain excess fat from the roasting pan and remove the orange slices, carrots and celery with a slotted spoon. Adding a splash of chicken stock, place the roasting pan over medium heat, scraping off any residue from the sides and base of the pan. Add the remaining stock, the zest of 1 orange and the juice of both of the remaining 2 oranges, and 1-2 teaspoons of brown sugar (according to taste). Simmer gently for 10-15 minutes, until the sauce has reduced a little. Add the brandy, taste and season as required.

To serve, decorate the duck with singed orange slices, and carve into quarters at the table, adding the orange sauce. Serve along with roasted potatoes and seasonal vegetables.

A Family Introduction

It's been almost two weeks since I made the move to the sunnier climates of Tuscany and today it occurred to me that it would truly be a crime not to document, and indeed share, all that I have experienced in recent days and what is still yet to come. I have had the unbelievably good fortune of finding myself totally immersed in authentic, Italian family life; a life which, for this family, mainly revolves around a small vegetable garden, a well broken-in gas stove and a polished, wooden table on the far side of the kitchen. I feel as though I have died and gone to foodie heaven. And this is what it looks like...

My boyfriend Michele (pronounced Mee-kay-lay) and his brother Antonio crowd around the kitchen counter top, obscuring my view of whatever has grabbed their attention. The intermittent blowing and 'mmmh' sounds coming from their direction and the delicious smell of fried breadcrumbs tells me that Anna has cooked up another batch of her awe-inspiring arancini - balls of rice, coated in breadcrumbs and fried. Anna, Michele's mother, stands at the stove, frying off yet another batch of today's antipasto. She turns to greet me and tells me to dive in whilst they're still 'belli caldi' (nice and hot) rather than waiting to eat them at the table. I wrestle in between the two brothers who seem more like a couple of kids in a sweet shop than two grown men in their mother's kitchen. I pick up a beautifully golden arancino between my fingers which has the appearance of a large scotch egg. I blow on it for a few seconds then take a large bite through the crispy golden coating to reveal a center of delicious tomato-ey rice stuffed with oozy mozzarella which stretches out into a long string as I attempt to bite through it. Anna explains that, traditionally, the rice in the arancini is flavored with saffron and is usually stuffed with ragù and peas but today she has adapted the recipe in order to use up ingredients in the fridge. As we continue to gorge on the plate of crispy treats, Michele's father, Giovanni, appears from the garden carrying a large bowl of freshly picked figs and a handful of tomatoes boasting in thick Calabrian dialect about the abundance of today's pickings. Eventually Anna announces 'É pronto eh!' (its ready) and we eagerly sit at the table and await the wonders that are to follow...

RECIPE
Arancini di riso al pomodoro e mozzarella
Serves 4-6


Ingredients
500g left-over risotto rice
Fresh tomato sauce
75g parmesan cheese
1 ball of mozzarella cut into 2cm cubes
4 eggs
Flour
Breadcrumbs
Oil for frying
Salt and pepper

Preparation

1. In a large bowl mix together the cold risotto rice, parmesan cheese and 2 egg yolks. Then gradually add the fresh tomato sauce until the rice is well coated but still firm enough to shape with your hands.

2. Take a small handful of the mixture, flattening it in the palm of your hand and place a cube of mozzarella in the centre. Close your hand, enclosing the mozzarella in the rice and roll it between your palms until it forms a firm, ball-like shape. Repeat until you have used up all the rice and mozzarella. (Note: it helps if you dampen your hands with water before trying to mould the rice.)

3. Half-fill a medium saucepan with oil and place over a medium heat until the oil is at the correct temperature for frying. (You can test this by dropping a few breadcrumbs into the pan. When the oil bubbles around the crumbs it is ready for frying.) In the meantime set up 3 bowls to coat the rice balls, one with flour, one with well seasoned eggs and one with breadcrumbs. Taking one rice ball at a time, roll in flour, egg wash and finally breadcrumbs. Repeat the process for the rest of the rice balls. (Note: use one hand for the flour and breadcrumbs and the other for the eggs.)

4. Fry the breaded arancini in small batches for around 4 minutes or until they are golden brown. Eat them while they're still belli caldi!

Variation: Be inventive! Add different cheeses, vegetables and meats to the centre of the arancini, whatever you have in your fridge! Prosciutto cotto is a very popular addition for meat lovers.